Seillans lunch in Provence

While in Provence this last October, we found a very nice restaurant for lunch recommended by a British shop owner.  Chez Hugo in the village of Seillans was just the cutest little spot.  The door was open to the outside as the weather was very nice.  The waiter told us they had only opened two months prior, but they had a nice crowd for lunch.  A much needed good restaurant in this village.

You see our appetizer above.  Oh my!!!  Oh my!!  I don't think I have ever tasted anything so good.  I know, I have said that so many times before while dining in France.  But this....sigh

The chef named it Gratin de Moules de Bouch ot Safranees Tombeé.  Yes, my love for mussels (moules) has just been expanded.  In these little cast iron pots were onions, garlic which were slightly thickened.  Then mussels and spinach and saffron were added to the pot and then into the oven to bake to perfection.  These are the flavors I made out.  So delicious, the rest of the meal was almost not that important.

There was also entertainment at this restaurant.  As I said before, the door was open.  Pretty soon after we were seated, a cat strolled in and looked around.  There was a chalkboard on an easel sitting on the floor with the days menu written on it.  Well, the visiting cat started rubbing against the legs as cats do.  All of a sudden, the easel collapses to the floor and the cat goes flying out the door.  Quickly, the waiter runs over to see what the noise was.  I told him the cat knocked it over.  He goes to the door and yells for "Romeo".  Seems Romeo lives in the restaurant.  It took quite a while before Romeo strolled back in as if nothing happened.  Cats are like that, aren't they?  If you know me really well, I simply tolerate cats but do not have a great love for them; not like for dogs.  But when a cat can be this entertaining, you gotta love it.  If only you could have seen the fast run out of the restaurant and then the nonchalant stroll back in as if nothing happen.  

Jaeger Suppe - Beef Soup

One recipe that I repeat every winter is this one, Jaeger Suppe.  It tastes very similar to what we often ate in Germany when we lived there.  It is simple to put together and I have changed the original in several ways.

The original recipe was a $15,000 winner in a National Beef Contest cook off in 1992.  The winner was from Minneapolis and the recipe was printed in the Minneapolis newspaper back in that year.  I hope you will get out your large pot and enjoy this German flavor soup.  By the way, Jaeger means "hunter" in German.  Venison would be a perfect meat to substitute for the beef.  I also added mushrooms because that just sounds more hunter-like to me.  Enjoy.

Jaeger Suppe  - Hunter's Soup

Makes 8 to 10 servings.

2 teaspoons vegetable oil
1 large, sweet onion, chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 large green pepper, seeded and chopped
2 pounds top sirloin beef butt steak, trimmed and cut into 1/2 inch cubes
2 cans (28 ounces each) tomatoes with juice
1 (12 ounce) can tomato paste
1 cup white wine
3-4  cups beef stock
3 potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/2 inch cubes
3 carrots, peeled and sliced into 1/2 inch pieces
Sliced crimini mushrooms...as many as you like
3 tablespoons Hungarian paprika
1 teaspoon caraway seeds, crushed between your palms
1 teaspoon black pepper
1 teaspoon salt
2 whole bay leaves
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper

12 ounces light dairy sour cream or yogurt for garnish
Fresh minced parsley for garnish

In large Dutch oven or stock pot, heat oil.  Brown beef on all sides.  Remove from pot.  Cook onion, garlic and green pepper for about 5 minutes, or until softened.  Add the beef back into the pot and add the remaining ingredients.  Bring to a boil.  Reduce heat, cover and simmer for 1 1/2 hours.  Remove bay leaves. Ladle soup into a large bowl.  Garnish with a dollop of sour cream or yogurt.  Sprinkle with fresh minced parsley.  Serve with light or dark rye bread.

Our 2006 Loire Trip Revisited!!

The Trout here, posting again about Chateaus and the wine of the Loire.

We chose the Loire region  for out first week of touring in France with a second week in Normandy for 2006.  I have loved  castles way back when we were stationed in Heidelberg in 1968, when we would tour 1-2 castles a weekend it seemed, for most of the year.  France certainly has its share of great chateaus like Chateau Chenonceau above that seem to be used more for a King's residence rather than for taking shelter from marauding pillagers!

The Loire is also the home of Joan of Arc who supposedly performed miracles as a 13-year-old warrior way back when she led battles to drive the British  out of France.  She is memorialized  throughout France for her heroics in battle!

We chose this dovecote gîte near Chinon for our Loire stay.  It was once home to hundreds of pigeons who were kept for food and fertilizer.  The gîte was well restored for humans and very comfortable.

The dovecote is part of the Chateau de la Vauguyon which was build way back in 1340-50!  It has been owned by the same family since the '30's.   The chateau has seen better days, but is being slowly repaired to its past glory with a second gîte now available in the main building.

The current owner is the son Celian Duthu who is a wonderful host and tour guide for enjoying our week in the Loire.  One day, he wanted to take us to visit his favorite wine producers for white and red wines.

This is Celian and Susan in the vineyards of Domaine de la Noblaie, home of his favorite Chenin Blanc white wine.  Chenin Blanc is not my favorite white as I find it a bit flabby and soft vs. Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc like a Sancerre.  We did buy a couple of bottles for our later evening repasts at the Chateau.

While at the Domaine, we were introduced to a lovely lady who owned and ran the Auberge du Val de Vienne.  She was selecting wines for her cellar to offer to her guests.  We later had lunch there which was  supurb and what a wonderful dining room.

Our next stop was at the Chateau de la Grille, Celian's favorite red wine producer.  It has been sold to the Baudry-Dutour group of 3 wineries in the Loire.  Reds are made from the Cabernet France grape which is pretty much isolated to the Loire for making wines solely from this varietal.  It is used a lot for blending with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot in the Bordeaux and in the Napa.  It is softer than its big brother and it adds finesse and perfume to the blend.  By itself, we found a wide range of like (nice, soft with lovely fruit and flower notes) to dislike (harsh green vegetal flavors and leaves to green bell peppers).

We tasted the 1996  and 2000 vintages of their offering which we liked enough to buy and bring home for the cellar.  We practically had to take an oath that we hold these wines for at least 6-8 years to allow them to soften and bring out their best finish.  Their wines were pretty tannic early in life and needed to lay down for several years.

We have faithfully let them age until I took both out of storage.  After finding a beautiful bone-in rib eye, I decided it was time to try the 2000 bottle.  After decanting for 3 hours, we were delighted to find this wine had indeed aged to a very nice wine of berry notes with a nice long finish perfect with the steak.

Thanks Celian for helping us enjoy the Loire region which continues today with the lovely wines we brought home 6 years ago!!  We look forward to trying the 1996 soon as well.