Seillans lunch in Provence

While in Provence this last October, we found a very nice restaurant for lunch recommended by a British shop owner.  Chez Hugo in the village of Seillans was just the cutest little spot.  The door was open to the outside as the weather was very nice.  The waiter told us they had only opened two months prior, but they had a nice crowd for lunch.  A much needed good restaurant in this village.

You see our appetizer above.  Oh my!!!  Oh my!!  I don't think I have ever tasted anything so good.  I know, I have said that so many times before while dining in France.  But this....sigh

The chef named it Gratin de Moules de Bouch ot Safranees Tombeé.  Yes, my love for mussels (moules) has just been expanded.  In these little cast iron pots were onions, garlic which were slightly thickened.  Then mussels and spinach and saffron were added to the pot and then into the oven to bake to perfection.  These are the flavors I made out.  So delicious, the rest of the meal was almost not that important.

There was also entertainment at this restaurant.  As I said before, the door was open.  Pretty soon after we were seated, a cat strolled in and looked around.  There was a chalkboard on an easel sitting on the floor with the days menu written on it.  Well, the visiting cat started rubbing against the legs as cats do.  All of a sudden, the easel collapses to the floor and the cat goes flying out the door.  Quickly, the waiter runs over to see what the noise was.  I told him the cat knocked it over.  He goes to the door and yells for "Romeo".  Seems Romeo lives in the restaurant.  It took quite a while before Romeo strolled back in as if nothing happened.  Cats are like that, aren't they?  If you know me really well, I simply tolerate cats but do not have a great love for them; not like for dogs.  But when a cat can be this entertaining, you gotta love it.  If only you could have seen the fast run out of the restaurant and then the nonchalant stroll back in as if nothing happen.  

Moules and Frites

I think I can honestly say, if I were fortunate enough to select my "last meal," I would choose Moules and Frites.  I ate them in the small town of Vence in Provence just last month.  I ate them another time on our 3 week trip.

Moules and Frites in a restaurant in Vence, Provence

I have eaten them  twice since coming home; the last time being tonight.  I absolutely love them.

We have tried several recipes in the past, but we sort of made up our own which works great for us.  This is what we do.

Moules and Frites

Oven-Bakes Fries

4-5 potatoes, Yukon gold or russets, cut into 1/2 inch sticks with skin on
3 tablespoons olive oil
sea salt
freshly ground pepper

Preheat oven to 450 degrees.  Cut potatoes into 1/2" sticks and soak in cold water for 5-10 minutes.

Remove from water and place in large pot with cold water, cover and put over high heat until water begins to simmer.  Cook potatoes for 2-3 minutes or until almost cooked through.  Do not overcook.  Drain and place on paper towels to drain.

Put olive oil on a baking sheet, add potatoes and toss with hands until the potatoes are covered.  Can add more olive oil if necessary.  Spread out evenly on baking sheet and salt and pepper.

Bake 25-30 minutes or until fries are crispy and light brown.  Remove from oven, salt and pepper more to taste.  Serve immediately.

Mussels

2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 large shallots, finely minced
2 tablespoons finely minced garlic
several shakes of red pepper flakes
3/4 cups white wine
3/4 cup heavy cream
2 pounds cleaned and de-bearded mussels
1/2 cup flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped.
salt and pepper

Heat butter and oil in large cooking pot (Dutch oven) over medium high heat.  Add minced shallots, garlic, and pepper flakes, and stir frequently until soft.

Add white wine and bring to boil.  Add cream and add mussels to pot and cover with lid.  Cook for about 5-7 minutes, stirring occasionally, or until mussels open.  Discard any mussels that do not open.  Stir in chopped parsley and season to taste.  Serve immediately.  Dip crusty bread into the broth or simply eat it with a spoon.  So delicious.

In November 2001, The Trout and I had our first trip to Paris.  We found a cozy restaurant one evening and sat at a table  for dinner.  As often happens in a foreign country, the best entertainment comes from the table beside you.  More than once we have entered into conversations with fellow diners.  But, this evening, no conversation was exchanged, but we learned the correct way to eat mussels.

A middle-aged gentlemen in a suit, with briefcase, sat down at a table for one.  Immediately we are thinking...he has just finished his day in the office and wants a nice bite to eat before going home.  We watch as he orders moules and frites.  Very carefully, he took his fork to grasp the first mussel out of the shell.  He then used that shell to pinch the rest of the mussels out of their shells.  So clever and so easy.  We have been eating our mussels like that ever since.  See photo below.

On the right I am holding the mussel and the left sided mussel is pinching it out of the shell.  I know I am really going over and beyond what many of you may want to know, but I just wanted to share what we learned one cold evening in a small bistro in Paris, many years ago.  My favorite meal......